By John Scott Marchant
Journalist and freelance writer, Busan
“Excuse me mate, could you name two cities in Korea?”
“Oh, that's easy, Seoul and … hang on, what's that place on the beach with a big film festival? That's right, Busan!”
For a four-year resident of Seoul, suddenly having to get used to people looking at me quizzically when telling them that I live in Busan has taken some getting used to. So it comes as something of a surprise that on the streets of a wet, cold and grey winter London some 9,090 kilometers as the crow flies from Busan, an Englishman knows not only the name of Korea's second largest city and its seaside location, but is aware of its highest profile international cultural event.
Obviously the word is out that Busan -- one of North East Asia's best kept secrets -- is a highly desirable destination and a home away from home for residents of countries from around the world experiencing Korean life in a setting where the best of city living and the environment coexists in unique harmony.
Located on the southeastern tip of the Korean Peninsula, Busan has the same latitude as Tokyo, Kabul, Los Angeles, Memphis, Beirut and Algiers. It boasts a population of 3.7 million and the world's third largest port in terms of cargo volume and efficiency. Famous throughout North East Asia for its popular beaches, rugged coastline, scenic mountains, hot springs, temples and fresh seafood, the city is now firmly positioned on the international scene due to the success of the Pusan International Film Festival (PIFF) and its growing reputation as a world-class tourist destination.
A resident of Korea for five years, my reasons for relocating to Busan were simple. I had grown weary of Seoul's hectic pace and needed to be closer to the environment and ocean. As an Australian who grew up calling the Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast's pristine beaches and lush green hinterlands home, the desire to swim in the ocean, walk along the beach, listen to the crash of the waves upon the shore and feel the sea breeze upon my skin was too strong to ignore. Logically, I turned towards Korea's southern coastline and Busan in my quest for a better life.
Having visited the city on several occasions, I could never forget the region's stunning blue skies, the freshness of the air and broad smiles of the locals. The general sense of wellbeing that comes from living near the ocean was always present for me in Busan and a constant reminder that Korea's cities offer markedly different living experiences for visitors when compared to Seoul.
First visiting Busan in 2002 for the World Cup, the city, like the rest of the country, was firmly in the grips of “Red Devil” football mania. As special a time as that was, there did not seem to be a large variety of organized cultural or recreational options available to the visitor looking for a distraction from street celebrations. The city was definitely welcoming and a lot of fun but getting by as a foreigner was not easy. For example, although international cuisine could be had at all the usual fast food and family restaurant franchises, the options outside of these traditional mainstays were very limited to say the least. Circa January 2006 when I relocated to the city, it seemed as if Busan had been completely reinvented with the global food craze well and truly embraced by the locals. High quality Chinese, Greek, Filipino, Indian, Italian, Mexican, Pakistani, Russian, Turkish and Vietnamese fare was now being enjoyed, along with the usual mouthwatering array of Korean dishes that never fail to satisfy in terms of freshness and taste.
But it was during my tours of Korea's coastal regions that I learnt to truly appreciate Busan's worth as a seafood city. After sampling the majority of ocean dishes that Korea's coastal regions have to offer, I can safely say that it' s the sheer variety and quality of food on offer which puts Busan right up alongside that other great seafood city of the world, San Francisco
Sashimi, sushi and a mind-boggling array of seafood dishes are available at all hours of the day and night across the city, guaranteeing that you will never go hungry. The local specialty of Dongnae Paejon -- a cross between an omelet and a pancake packed with green onions and vegetables -- is a must and best experienced at Jagalchi Fish Market located near Busan Harbor. This area is home to one of Korea's most famous seafood markets, showcasing the country's colorful and vibrant market life.
Over the years, Busan's cultural development has come along in leaps and bounds: Mount Geumjeong Fortress (the largest fortress in Korea), Beomeosa (one of the five largest Buddhist temples in the country) and United Nations Memorial Cemetery, along with a host of distinctive festivals have all helped put this city on the map as an international cultural destination.
One of the largest film festivals in Asia, PIFF, is similarly responsible for helping Busan climb onto the global stage. Firmly in the center of the Hallyu phenomenon, Asia's filmmakers now vie to shoot their films in the heart of Korea's film industry. The Busan Sea Festival, Cherry Blossom Tree Festival, Dalmaji Festival, Jalgachi Fish Market Festival and Rock & Roll Festival also keep tourists from around the country and abroad streaming into the city.
But for me, it's the environment and people of Busan which make it such a special and dynamic place.
The beaches at Dadaepo, Gwangalli, Haeundae, Songdo and Songjeong are unbeatable spots to unwind and enjoy three of Korea's four seasons. While summer beaches are often dominated by monsoons, typhoons and overcrowding, the mountains -- which never seem too far away -- offer excellent hiking and truly impressive panoramas of Busan.
Still, even surrounded by all this natural beauty, it is the locals in Busan which truly bring out the best in the city. A friendly and hardy bunch, they are quick to break into a smile, share a meal, drink and a laugh. Generous, gregarious and outgoing, it is these people who showcase the true heart of Busan and a side of the Korean character which reflects the region's unique blend of dynamism and traditional values like no other.
Although no longer North East Asia's best kept secret, Busan remains my home away from home and a dynamic place which every foreigner who comes to Korea should visit or try to live in for at least a year. Its unique blend of culture and environment has left an indelible impression upon me as it will anyone who ventures within its boundaries.
The source of news : Korea.net March 11, 2007
