- These bookstores are real page-turners Does the creeping chill of December make you feel like a bear about to hibernate for the winter? Resist the urge to shut yourself away for the next several months and find warmth in a good book. Sure, you can enjoy a book at home. But, why not explore some of the excellent altars to the written word Busan has to offer instead? From large franchises to newly-opened shops, to the timeless Bosudong Bookstore Alley, Dynamic Busan this month features several ways to convince your inner bookworm to turn the page on a new adventure. Bosudong Bookstore Alley■ Bosudong Bookstore Alley With a narrow alleyway to guide patrons, book stores both great and small face each other on both sides. So many books are crammed into scores of shops lining Bosudong Bookstore Alley, an iconic location in old Busan. Stepping into the alley, one may feel like time has stopped. Following the outbreak of the Korean War, which resulted in an armistice agreement with the north in 1953, books from the United States military bases and those of refugees were widely circulated. This is how Bosudong Bookstore Alley found its footing in Busan. The glory days for the alley were between the 1960s and 1980s, when about 80 used bookstores occupied this relic of the past. As the number of visitors sharply declined in the early 2000s, a number of shops closed their doors. Renewed interest and investment in the alley in recent years, however, has brought this unique attraction into a new age, as cafes and art galleries join book stores, creating a wider appeal for the alley. Such interest has even resulted in the area being used as a setting in a recent television drama. The area merchant association has been holding a variety of events to revitalize business in the alley such as festivals, discount events, antique book exhibitions, art and humanities classes, bazaars and meet-and-greets with authors. Out-of-print books, antique books and lower-priced new publications are all available here. Finding scribbles or graffiti in ancient tomes can also be fun, as it serves as a doorway to the past.-How to get there: Jungang Station (Metro line 1), exit 7. Walk straight along Daecheong-ro (street) for about 15 to 20 minutes. Or, take bus 81 near exit 3 of Choryang Station (Metro line 1) or exit 7 of Busan Station (Metro line 1) and get off at the Bosudong Bookstore Alley (보수동 책방 골목) bus stop. Neighborhood stores, unique concepts■ Bookstore Forest This cute little store along the Oncheoncheon Stream street in Dongnae-gu (district) offers reading material and doubles as a graphic design studio. The store features books with a focus on design and art-related books including architecture, film, fine art and many other fields, so a visit can be interesting even without buying something. Korean and foreign books are available, with house-made eco-friendly bags and bookmarks for sale.-Hours: 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 1 to 7 p.m. Saturday; closed Sundays and Mondays.-How to get there: Allak Station (Donghae Line), exit 1. Go behind Ttuiranchae (뜨란채) to find the store in the alley next to Hanseong Girin (한성 기린).-Information: Instagram @forestbooks_studio ■ Our Bookstore (우리글방) A healthy-sized book cafe located in the middle of Bosudong Bookstore Alley, Our Bookstore recently combined with a cafe after about 20 years. Books can be seen piled in places here and there amid staircases leading both up to the second floor and into the basement, where the cafe is located. Tens of thousands of books, records, CDs and postcards crowd the shelves and walls. The bookstore's unique interior has attracted both locals and out-of-towners for years. It is packed with the owner's extensive collections of various genres including humanities, social studies, science and art. This shop's comfortable atmosphere and its weathered products conjure up a grandmother's cozy study room.-Hours: from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.-How to get there: Take bus 81 and get off at the Bosudong Bookstore Alley bus stop. It is located in the middle of the alley. Newly-opened large bookstores ■ YES24 Bookstore F1963 branch F1963 in Mangmi-dong has gone through another transformation after gaining public attention thanks to its successful conversion from an old factory to an art and culture center. YES24, a franchised used bookstore, recently joined this interesting location. Korea's largest used bookstore, measuring 16,500 square meters, the F1963 location of YES24 holds nearly 200,000 used books including rare volumes of out-of-print books and foreign vintage books, CDs, DVDs, blu-ray discs and book related goods. Its interior is also proving a draw for visitors. Typecasting machines and printers are on display and the principles of working machines are explained through animations. There is also a gallery where books are displayed on inclined bookshelves. There's even a kids area for families.-Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.-Information: Instagram @yes24_bookstore-How to get there: Mangmi Station (Metro line 3), exit 1. Take mini bus 2 and get off at the Sanjeong Apartment bus stop. Or, Suyeong Station (Metro lines 2 and 3), exit 5. Take bus 54 at the nearby Suyeong Intersection bus stop, also get off at the Sanjeong Apartment bus stop. Go uphill toward F1963. ■ Eternal Journey While the newly-opened Hilton Busan hotel in the Ananti Cove entertainment complex has been getting loads of buzz, the Eternal Journey bookstore is not too far behind. Opened in July, Korea's largest resort complex provides a beautiful view along the Gijang coast. In this resort town where walkways and restaurants are also located, Eternal Journey boasts 1,855 square meters of literary entertainment. Its name signifies it as a space for timeless adventure through reading.Books are displayed to allow every title to be seen, as opposed to being densely packed, like in many bookstores. Content is displayed according to about 50 themes of figures, sea, environment and others. Many books unavailable elsewhere can be found here.-Hours: Noon to 9 p.m. weekdays, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekends.-Information: facebook.com/eternaljourney.life/-How to get there: OSIRIA Station (Donghae Line). Take a taxi, which only costs the starting rate.
- Hike it, you surely will like it Hoedong Reservoir A trek through Hoedong Reservoir during autumn is sure to include lots of photo taking. Would you like to feel nature at its most, well, natural? The trails at Hoedong Reservoir are calling. Completed in 1942, Hoedong Reservoir is the largest reservoir in Busan. It was here that a dam was built at the upper part of the Suyeonggang River to be used as a water supply source for Busan citizens. With a total area measuring more than two million square meters, Hoedong was designated a conservation zone for the protection of water quality and restrictions were placed on its access. While reservoir access as a hiking course was granted to outdoor enthusiasts in 2010, special attention remains to ensure the water that flows through there is protected.The deep and tranquil lake located between the ridges of the reservoir create beautiful reflections on the surface that will cause you to linger. A wooden pathway and reed forest continue along the lake. The course is easy even for beginner hikers as paths are mostly level. Hiking access to Hoedong Reservoir was granted in 2010. A one-kilometer red clay path offers chances for barefoot walks and has a place for washing feet at the end. Wooden gazebos and a grove of beautiful trees make the forest paths even more enticing. An observation deck is a must-visit halfway through the course. Climb a wooden stairway for about 15 to 20 minutes to reach the top and take a glance at the reservoir lake and surrounding mountains.Begin at Dongdae Bridge and continue along the lake to Sanghyeon Village. It takes about two-and-a-half to three hours to cover this nine-kilometer course.-How to get there: Busan National University of Education Station (Metro line 1), exit 2, or Suan Station (Metro line 4), exit 6. Take bus 179 and get off at the last stop, Hoedongdong; Suyeong Station (Metro lines 2 and 3), exit 17. Take bus 42, also to Hoedongdong; Yeonsan Station (Metro line 1), exit 12. Take bus 99, also to Hoedongdong bus stop. Walk about five to 10 minutes from the bus stop to the hiking course entrance. Geumjeongsan Mountain Autumn is a beautiful, colorful time to explore the many hiking courses available in Busan. This 801-meter monster is Busan's tallest mountain, straddling Geumjeong-gu (district), Buk-gu and Sasang-gu.The mountain is popular among hikers for its 18-kilometer Geumjeongsanseong Fortress, well-maintained hiking trails and Beomeosa Temple, one of Korea's largest Buddhist temples. It offers magnificent views especially in autumn with a brilliant kaleidoscope of leaves. Access the trail at the back of the temple and climb toward North Gate to find the fortress along the mountain ridge. Continue along a wooden stairway to Godangbong Peak, the mountain's summit, to drink in an expansive view beyond Busan that goes as far as Gimhae and Yangsan.Of course, Beomeosa is a must-visit attraction. Take a moment to reflect or simply relax. A towering ginkgo tree, estimated to be more than 500 years old, stands in the middle of the courtyard. The area is rich in Buddhist culture, offering copious sights such as the nationally-designated three-story stone pagoda, Buddha statue and Iljumun Gate.For those who are not accustomed to hiking or have some difficulties walking longer distances, use the cable car on the way up. Take the cable car at Geumgang Park up the mountain to access the hiking trail.-How to get there: Beomeosa Station (Metro Line 1), exits 5 or 7. Take the alley between the exits and walk straight three minutes. Take bus 90 at the Beomeosa entrance bus stop and get off at the Beomeosa ticket office bus stop. One-way and round trip tickets for the cable car at Geumgang Park run 5,000 and 8,000 won, respectively. Jangsan Mountain The flame grass found on Jangsan Mountain is a stunning sight. Jangsan Mountain in Haeundae-gu is the best location to appreciate fields of beautiful flame grass.Jangsan Mountain commands a view of not just downtown Busan but also of the nearby ocean. It is a very popular hiking destination much of the year. Lovely sights such as a refreshing waterfall bring people out in the summer, and flame grass, known by its scientific name miscanthus, draws people out in autumn.Start from Daecheoncheon Stream and climb toward the mountain. Breathe in crisp mountain air while walking through the forest path and forest park. The trail continues past Yangun Waterfall, with its majestic roaring currents, and then Daecheon Park. The trail from Daecheon Park to the flame grass field runs more than two kilometers and autumn leaves all over the area are a welcome sight.Silvery waves through the flame grass field against the blue sky are a special gift offered only around this time of year. The site is considered one of the 12 most beautiful sights in Haeundae, according to the Haeundae government office. Take pause and find peace of mind surrounded by the beauty of nature. Then, climb another 15 minutes from the flame grass field to reach the mountaintop and take in additional excellent views of the city below.-How to get there: Jangsan Station (Metro line 2), exit 12. Walk straight 20 minutes to the entrance of Daecheon Park. Jangansa Temple Jangansa Temple is a humble and beautiful place to visit. Jangansa Temple in Gijang-gun (county) is another well-known destination to appreciate beautiful autumn foliage. Its stunning valleys attract numerous hikers in the summer, but colorful maple trees give off great autumn vibes around this time of year.While this temple is not as big or fancy as some others, the magnificent mountain ranges surrounding it are a big draw for those who want to appreciate nature, especially between late October and mid-November when the mountain is covered with colorful leaves.Built during the Silla Dynasty era, this more than 1,000-year-old temple is home to many cultural properties including the treasure-designated daeungjeon (main shrine). Check out Great Buddhist Master Dalma's standing statue and a three-story pagoda with a 500 year-old ginkgo tree in front of the sanctuary. The tree, with its tangled branches reaching toward the heavens, looks majestic.-How to get there: Haeundae Station (Metro line 2), exit 7. Take bus 39 and get off at the Gijang Patrol Division bus stop. Then transfer to mini bus 9 and get off at the Sangjangan bus stop. Walk to the temple for 20 minutes. A taxi ride costs around 10,000 won from Ilgwang Station on the Donghae Line.
- Creativity, tranquility available in autumn Welcome autumn with special programs available in Busan. Pictured above are participants in a temple stay at Beomeosa Temple.Planning a visit to Busan this autumn? If you are looking for some truly unique experiences, might suggest a little bit of calm and creative energy during your travels? Mountain temple stays and makgeolli making programs are two opportunities to try something different this season. Below, check out our recommendations for temple stays throughout the city, as well as a pair of fun and informative makgeolli making programs. Have fun and enjoy your time in Busan! Temple stay programs Summer can be a busy, exciting time, full of outdoor adventures and high energy. Now that it is just a memory, and before winter clamps down for a shivering spell, take advantage of pleasant, calm-inducing temperatures with serene activities like a temple stay. The best part is you do not need to venture too far afield to find a temple stay program to suit your needs and interests. The sound of moktak (wooden percussion instrument used for chanting by Buddhist clergy) wakes the sleepy temple amid the deep calm and quiet of the mountain. Does this sound like a great way to find some peace this season? Public awareness for temple stays has reached a fever pitch in recent years. It's no wonder people are seeking out avenues toward calm. In our hectic modern lives, many seek ways to make sense of all the noise. A few days or, if you have the time, longer participating in a temple stay program might be the answer. Busan has several options available right here in the city. Beomeosa Temple is perhaps the most well-known, among both Koreans and foreign residents and visitors. But, there are other temple stay programs for you to explore, as well. These programs include temple tours, Buddhist culture and etiquette classes, meditation, wish making and balwoo gongyang (communal Buddhist meal service). Participants can also have friendly conversations with monks and learn about tea ceremonies during some temple stays. For many, leaving the steel and concrete of the city for the delicate wooden and tiled temple buildings puts them at ease as soon as they arrive. Participants can also enjoy calm, serene forest and garden walks, absorbing the peace such things bring. Fresh air will clear your head when you walk along a dirt path while wearing simple and comfortable clothes that are provided by the temple. Learn about bowing etiquette and immerse yourself in meditation with incense burning practice. This unique experience will help you focus during meditation. The balwoo gongyang meal service will serve as a humble reminder to not leave even a grain of rice after taking only the right amount of simple and wholesome vegetarian temple food and rinsing the remaining rice in the bowl. This meal service helps people realize how valuable food is. Beomeosa Temple has offered a temple stay program for so long that it has become synonymous with temple stays in Busan. The copious autumn-tingled leaves found around this mountain temple frames the fulfilling experience. Some might recognize Hongbeopsa Temple for the gigantic Buddha statue that dominates their facility. But, this Geumjeong-gu (district) temple located a short drive from Nopo Station on metro line 1 also offers a great temple stay for families or groups of friends as private rooms can be provided. Busanjin-gu's Sangwayngsa Temple, best known for its massive annual lantern festival, has extensive and colorful temple grounds. The temple runs various themed programs for children as well as programs that focus on reflection and meditation. Seonamsa Temple, in Buam-dong (neighborhood), Busanjin-gu, recently completed its new temple stay building, offering a modern facility. Participants sit around a monk at the center, talk and participate in meditation practice. A temple stay can really be a great opportunity to find a little respite in what is too often a chaotic modern world. -Information: For Beomeosa temple stay, visit beomeo.kr/eng_templestay (English). Reservations for Beomeosa and other temple stays in Korea can also be made at eng.templestay.com. Makgeolli making Learning the history and practice of makgeolli making, and even getting our hands dirty by making a batch ourselves, is an awesome, very culturally unique way for people from various walks of life, communities and cultures to get together to express a mutual creative passion. Makgeolli is a deep part of Busan's history. This fermented rice wine's origins trace back to the Joseon Dynasty era when people began to brew it at Geumjeongsanseong Fortress, located 800 meters up on the top of Mt. Geumjeong here in Busan. The lightly-carbonated, mildly-alcoholic beverage, with its milky, pleasant taste, has been passed down for generations. Making yeast-fermented liquor can be a cumbersome task because the finished product is very much influenced by its environment. This has not stopped producers such as Geumjeongsanseong Fortress from making makgeolli. Geumjeongsanseong Fortress, as well as Yeonyojae in Munhyeon-dong (neighborhood), are two locations that provide people with hands-on makgeolli making programs in Busan. Geumjeongsanseong makgeolli has a strong flavor, pleasant scent and a clean aftertaste. They have honed their makgeolli making skills over generations, sticking to the traditional methods that have continued to make it a popular beverage that can be enjoyed on its own or paired with food. Quality yeast is kneaded underfoot before being stored in a temperature and moisture-controlled environment until it is time to be used in the creation of the final product. Geumjeongsanseong Fortress currently runs a program for study and experience. The one-hour session includes the history of makgeolli, the makgeolli brewing process, tours of the brewery and yeast room and makgeolli sampling. Yeast kneading and makgeolli making will be added to the program in November with fees expected to be 10,000 to 20,000 won per person. Yeonyojae, located near the Busan International Finance Center, is also well-known as a makgeolli school that provides classes on the history and meaning of Korean makgeolli. Rice is steamed and cooled before yeast powder and water are added to mature it. Then, residues are drained and the remaining alcohol is fermented to produce the makgeolli. At Yeongyojae, sample a variety of makgeolli from across the nation and try to make your own. There are other experiential programs at Yeonyojae, as well, including making fermented vinegar, makgeolli mask packs and soaps. -Information: For the Geumjeongsanseong Fortress program, send inquiries to email@example.com or call their manager at 051-517-0202 (not fluent in English). For Yeonyojae, call 051-636-9355 or message them on Facebook at facebook.com/yeonyojae. A Buddhist monk conducts a Dharma talk during a temple retreat.Kookje Newspaper Making your own makgeolli can make for a fun and unique cultural experience.Yeonyojae Beomeosa Temple stay participants assemble Buddhist mala bead bracelets.Beomeosa Balwoo gongyang is a meal service conducted at temple stays.Busanilbo The makgeolli yeast storage facility at Geumjeongsanseong Fortress.Kookje Newspaper Makgeolli making programs also often include tastings.Yeonyojae
- Delicious destinations to send 2017 off in style [Recommended Local Eateries] Great places for year-end celebrations The year's end is upon us. December is a time for friends and families to gather, whether for the holidays, the new year, or just to celebrate for the sake of celebrating. Go ahead, you've made it to the end of another year. That alone is worthy of a party. This issue of Dynamic Busan features restaurants that provide great atmosphere and delicious food for families, couples and friends to help usher in a new, prosperous year. ■ Suragan (수라간) Gijang-gun (county) is quite literally a breath of fresh air. Seemingly a world away from the hustle and bustle of Busan's downtowns, Suragan is a delicious place to dine in Cheolma-myeon (town), a place where the ocean, mountains and surroundings provide a most relaxing backdrop to any year-end celebration. Offering a prix fixe (pre-selected) menu, this private home converted into a restaurant offers a lovely taste of simple Korean country living. The Cheolma myeonjang (town head, similar to community head) recommends this restaurant for devotion to its food, which extends to every side dish. Without the aid of any artificial ingredients, Suragan's food offers a clean and pure dining experience. "Suragan means `royal kitchen,' where food is prepared for kings," the myeonjang said. "It feels like they're giving me the royal treatment every time I dine here."Starting with sungnyung (hot water blended with scorched rice from the bottom of a pot), the restaurant serves steamed pumpkin and savory hand-made tofu, followed by enough side dishes as to make one's eyes bulge (and possibly their belts, as well). The myeonjang recommends the pork boiled with medicinal herbs (30,000 won) for its tenderness. Wrap the pork in a pickled perilla leaf for a truly mouth-watering experience. Other prix fixe meals start at 18,000 won per person.Post-meal tea can be enjoyed in a building across from the restaurant. Take a sip and reflect on the close of a great year, with many more still to come. -Address: 56-3, Wayeo 1-gil, Cheolma-myeon, Gijang-gun-How to get there: Banyeo Agricultural Market Station (Metro line 4), exit 2. Take bus 184 and get off at the Wayeo Village bus stop. Public transportation is not always available so getting to the restaurant by car is recommended. -Hours: 11:40 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Closed Wednesdays. ■ Dudeoji (두더지) Dudeoji, the Geoje 1-dong community head's (dongjang) recommendation, has become popular among Instagram tastemakers that are eager to let diners know about this res-taurant's unique culinary delights and stylish interior.The dongjang says Dudeoji is a quaint restaurant that is great for friends and couples to spend time together. "All of the beautifully-plated food looks too good to be consumed," he said with a laugh.His favorite is the restaurant's pizza, their signature menu item. Chicken and pasta entrees are also popular. Pasta is made fresh and enjoyed with a selection of tender vegetables and crispy bacon, while chicken dishes offer both crispness on the outside and moist tenderness on the inside. A variety of sauces also pair well with the different entrees. Most dishes cost about 15,000 won. Wine is available by the glass. Reservations are required. -Address: 81, Beobwonbuk-ro, Yeonje-gu-How to get there: Geoje Station (Metro line 3), exit 10. Walk about 10 minutes toward the right end of Busan High Court (부산고등법원). -Hours: Noon to 9 p.m. (break time is from 3 to 5 p.m.) Monday through Friday, noon to 3 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sundays. -Reservations: 010-5004-6112 (text reservations recommended if you cannot speak Korean)
- Beat back the chill with a hot bowl of better broth [Recommended Local Eateries] Meals with comforting broth As chilly late-autumn temperatures cause us to don long sleeves and high collars, meals featuring hot, comforting broths start to sound better and better. This issue of Dynamic Busan features favorite restaurants that offer delicious, heart warming meals that heat up the body from inside out. ■ Myeongye Haemul Japtang (명예해물잡탕) "Jap" in Korean means "miscellaneous" and can be found in a number of Korean menu items. Japtang is a kind of casserole made by boiling various meats and vegetables with spices in a pot. Myeongye Haemul Japtang, favored by the Gamcheon 1-dong (neighborhood) dongjang (community head), serves up a meal that can be enjoyed all year but is especially suitable during autumn's chill out. A thick seafood-stuffed casserole called "haemul japtang" is the restaurant's signature menu item and can be yours for 8,000 won. Unlike other typical Korean soups, starch is added to these dishes to thicken its already pleasant broth.The dish that gives this restaurant its name was conceived and developed by a former hotel chef over two years. Fresh seafood including blue crabs, prawns, scallops and webfoot octopus is prepared daily with aromatic mushrooms. Mild-to-spicy flavors can be chosen with various side dishes available including parae jeon (sea lettuce pancakes) and fried eggs. The community head recommends wrapping rice in a dried seaweed sheet and dipping it in the japtang sauce before eating. That is, if you have any of it left after greedily tucking in to the main attraction. -Address: 398, Wonyang-ro, Saha-gu-How to get there: Nampo Station (Metro line 1), exit 8. Take bus 9 and get off at the Gamcheon Sageori bus stop. Cross the road and walk to find the restaurant, which is located across from the Gamcheon Firehouse, near a hospital. -Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed every third Sunday. ■ Hadong Jaecheopguk (하동재첩국) There is a jaecheop (small freshwater marsh clams) street in Samnak-dong where restaurants used to collect the little clams at the Nakdonggang River clustered around the Sasang Industrial Complex. While Nakdonggang jaecheop has since disappeared, some of these res-taurants still offer this uniquely Busan dish. Hadong Jaecheopguk, the dongjang's favorite, points to its 31-year history with timeworn tables and numerous picture frames featuring celebrities who have praised their food. A pungent fishy scent might deter newcomers. However, jaecheop is rich in calcium and iron and blends beautifully in a rich soup. Hadong Jaecheopguk in particular is faithful to the origins of this dish, which runs 6,000 won a person. They use only natural, fleshy jaecheop from the Seomjingang River in Jeollanam-do (province) that is finished with chopped chives atop the milky-white broth. Wild vegetables and sauce are provided to mix with rice, as well. Like many older Korean restaurants, Hadong Jaecheopguk's menu is sparse, so sparse there's no need to order. As soon as your server knows how many customers are at the table, the meal is served. In addition to the cooked version, jaecheophoe (raw clam, 10,000 won) is also popular among customers. Chewy jaecheop harmonize well with crunchy cucumbers and carrots and a not-too-spicy sauce agrees with just about everybody.-Address: 33, Nakdong-daero 1518beon-gil, Sasang-gu-How to get there: Mora Station (Metro line 2), exit 3. Walk straight. Turn left at the T-station alley and walk for five minutes. The restaurant is located across from a public parking lot.-Hours: 6 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily.
- Delicious dining destinations worthy of discovery [Recommended Local Eateries] Hidden places to try Dalma Gallery, located on Sanbokdoro, Choryang-dong, serves a beautiful bowl of bibimbap. This issue of Dynamic Busan features Korean restaurants off the beaten path that offer set menus, becoming increasingly-known here by the French phrase "table d'hote." Although not the most well-known restaurants, those who do know keep coming back time and again for high-quality meals and exceptional dining experiences. Forgive us for revealing your hidden gems! ■ Dalma Gallery (달마갤러리) Dalma Gallery, along Sanbokdoro (mountainside road) in Choryang-dong (district), is an old mansion with a well-maintained garden and big mature trees. Now a restaurant, this inviting structure once served as the official residence for both the mayors of Busan and governors of Gyeongsangnam-do (province). The restaurant also serves as a gallery for sculptures, paintings, ceramics and antiques depicting dalma, an important Buddhist figure. The Choryang-dong dongjang (community head) recommends Dalma's bibimbap (10,000 won). While one of Korea's most familiar dishes, the dongjang notes their take on the classic is without peer, featuring wild greens, shiitake mushrooms and tree ear mushrooms served atop expertly-cooked rice. For spice and flavor, add plenty of gochujang (red pepper paste) and mix. If bibimbap is not enough, Dalma's ojingeo muchim (seasoned squid) or jeyuk bokkeum (stir-fried spicy pork), served family style for 20,000 and 30,000 won an order ought to fill up even the hungriest group of diners. Round out your meal with a cup of soothing traditional tea. Alcohol is not available at the restaurant but diners can bring their own makgeolli (rice wine) or beer.-Address: 25, Choryang-ro 100beon-gil, Dong-gu-How to get there: Busanjin Station (Metro line 1), exit 7. Take bus 22 or 52 and get off at the Computer Science High School bus stop.-Hours: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Closed Sundays.-Phone: 051-917-2005 (Korean) ■ Suseonjae (수선재) "A bowl of rice is like an herbal tonic." This classic Korean adage pairs well with Suseonjae, the Sajik 2-dong community head's recommendation. With all natural ingredients, original flavors and vibrant colors, you may start feeling healthier just by looking at it. Now imagine how good you'll feel after eating it. Suseonjae means "fairy's house" in Korean. And, this modest private-home-turned-restaurant lives up to its name, as the sounds of gayageum (Korean zither) transport diners to another realm. The restaurant serves medicinal herbs-based food that not only tastes great, but even boasts medicinal qualities. All food served at Suseonjae is developed through strict quality-control preparations. Crispy fish and dumplings stuffed with cucumber are menu items served readily and amply. The community head recommends Suseonjae's tofu sobagi (tofu wrap with filling). Diced mushrooms are put in tofu before being fried slightly, as the aroma of shiitake mushrooms and chamnamul (Korean pimpinella plant) envelops the tofu. Besides the restaurant's table d'hote lunch menu, which costs between 18,000 and 20,000 won per person, hwangtaegui (grilled dried pollack), suyuk (boiled pork slices) and bulgogi jeongol (seasoned beef hot pot) come highly recommended. In-house medicinal liquors, brewed by the owner using wasp, green plums and mulberry are also available.-Address: 44-4, Sajikbuk-ro 13beon-gil, Dongnae-gu-How to get there: Minam Station (Metro line 3), exit 3. Take bus 50 and get off at the Ssangyong Yega entrance bus stop. Walk into the alley where Paris Baguette is to find Su-soenjae hidden at the corner.-Hours: Noon to 9:30 p.m. Closed occasionally; call ahead to confirm.-Phone: 051-504-7733 (Korean)
- Christmas Bazaar returns Live entertainment is a highlight of the bazaar. The Busan's International Women's Association will hold its annual Christmas Bazaar from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 9, at the Haeundae Grand Hotel. Attractions at the event include local live entertainment, handmade Christmas crafts and treats available for purchase, an opportunity to have photos with Santa Claus and more.Entry to the annual Christmas Bazaar is 2,000 won (children under 12 are free). All proceeds from the event will go to local charities and orphanages in the Busan area. Past beneficiaries have included Maesil Orphanage, Love Field Elderly, Busan Women's Shelter and more. *For more information, email firstname.lastname@example.org or visit biwa-korea.com.
- Classics for the new year ■ 2017 Year-end Concert (Dec. 22)The Busan Philharmonic Orchestra and Busan Metropolitan Chorus will hold their regular year-end concert at 7:30 p.m. Dec. 22 at the main theater of the Busan Cultural Center. The concert features 18th century Austrian composer Joseph Haydn's Symphony No. 45 and Ludwig van Beethoven's classic Symphony No. 9. -Price: 10,000 to 30,000 won-Information: 051-607-6065, bscc.or.kr ■ The Nutcracker (Dec. 23-24)Busan Cinema Center will have three performances of The Nutcracker on Dec. 23 and 24.The Nutcracker is an iconic Russian ballet created by composer Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky and dancer Marius Petipa. Since premiering in 1892, The Nutcracker has become a perennial year-end favorite around the world.-Price: 30,000 to 60,000 won-Information: 051-780-6000, dureraum.org (Korean) ■ New Year's Eve Concert (Dec. 31)This New Year's Eve celebration is set for 10:30 p.m. at the Busan Cultural Center. Highlights will include classics The Barber of Seville, William Tell Overture and more. Nella Fantasia will be performed in the "popera" style.-Ticket price: 10,000 to 30,000 won-Information: 051-607-6000, bscc.or.kr
- Extended hours From Dec. 1, the Busan-Gimhae Light Rail Transit operates 15-to-17 minutes longer and the number of trains will increase during rush hours. The last train leaving Sasang Station will now leave at 11:41 p.m. instead of the previous 11:26 p.m. The last train from Gaya University will now leave at 11:36 p.m. instead of 11:19 p.m. Passengers will be able to transfer to Busan Metro line 3 at Daejeo Station at 12:01 a.m. and to Busan Metro Line 2 at Sasang Station at 12:16 a.m. More trains will be operated during rush hours and the intervals for weekday daytime trains will now be five-to-eight minutes. Meanwhile, a recent study found this train's usage rose at around 10 a.m. weekends and holidays, peaking between 4 and 6 p.m. As a result, daytime trains will increase. Morning and night trains will be decreased.
- Here comes the sun, here is where to see it Wide Busan: Year-end Events Any regrets from 2017? Don't fret, next year will be your best year yet. The dawn of a new year is a great symbol for renewal and rebirth. Even after a particularly treacherous year, the beginning of a new one can often bring fresh optimism.Many flock to several locations across the city, from Yongdusan Park to Haeundae Beach and several places inbetween, every year to bid former years farewell and usher in new ones. This issue of Dynamic Busan highlights several events that welcome 2018 right. ■ Citizens Bell Ringing Ceremony at Yongdusan Mt. Park Tens of thousands gather at Yongdusan Park every Dec. 31 for this special event. Starting at 11 p.m., the evening includes a musical performance, bell ringing ceremony and new year's greetings. The highlight of the event is the countdown that begins 10 seconds before midnight. At mid-night, everyone makes wishes for health, happiness or whatever else they'd like to see become reality in the new year.The citizen's bell ringing follows. The bell holds more significance because it was made with funds raised by the people of Busan. The bell is struck 33 times with the messages of hope, love and peace. Fireworks will follow, as well as messages from the mayor of Busan and a citizen's representative. A boisterous musical performance is scheduled to close out the event.The popular tree festival held around Nampo's Gwangbok-ro (street) coincides with the year-end event, so allow yourself some time earlier in the evening to enjoy that, as well.-How to get there: Nampo Station (Metro line 1), exit 7. Walk about 10 minutes and find the escalator leading to Yongdusan Park on your right. Multiple sunrise events■ Sunrise event in Haeundae Haeundae Beach draws tens of thousands around 6 a.m. every Jan. 1 who want to bear witness to the grandeur of the year's first sun rising over the horizon. Special events at the city's most popular beach are expected to include cheer performances, new year's greetings, a celebratory air show and an absolutely chilling (literally) ocean swim.Every year has its own animal sign in Korean tradition. For 2018, it will be the year of the dog, so a huge sculpture symbolizing dogs is also expected to be installed on the beach.-How to get there: Haeundae Station (Metro line 2), exits 3 or 5. Walk toward the beach ■ Gwangalli Sunrise Event Gwangalli Beach will also be packed with new year revelers. Various performances, tteokguk (rice-cake soup) sharing for up to 5,000 people, balloon flying and wish writing are slated.What makes this event particularly unique, however, is the opportunity to view the sunrise from Gwangan Bridge. The upper part of Busan's iconic bridge will be open to the public from 6 to 9 a.m. Traffic to this portion of the bridge will be restricted from 5 to 10 a.m.-How to get there: Gwangan Station (Metro line 2), exit 3 or 5. Walk toward the beach for about 10 minutes ■ Songdo Songdo Beach also hosts an event from 6 to 8 a.m. on Jan. 1. The morning includes a sunrise countdown and traditional performances, which include a folk song party, drumming and pung-mulnori (traditional Korean percussion performance).For those who arrive early, a bonfire will be made and hot drinks and tteokguk will be dis-tributed. Balloon flying is also slated for around sunrise. -How to get there: Busan Station (Metro line 1), exit 7. Take bus 17, 26 or 61 and get off at Songdo entrance bus stop.
- Ancient tombs a modern way to spend a day Wide Busan: Bokcheondong Ancient Tombs The Bokcheondong Ancient Tombs site, in Bokcheon-dong (neighborhood), Dongnae-gu (district), provides visitors an opportunity to experience Korea's Iron Age.A unique landscape can be found if you visit Bokcheon-dong (neighborhood).Seen between apartment blocks, the graves of people from the Gaya period (42-532 AD) are clustered at the Bokcheondong Ancient Tombs site. Old relics like gilt-bronze crowns, armor and helmets have been excavated from here.The ancient tombs site, a discovered treasure in Busan, is a great place to experience something unique under the azure skies this autumn. ■ MeaningsDongnae was a very important location in Busan until the end of the Joseon Dynasty. To that end, Dongnae has many historical remains all across the district that reflect this history. This cluster of tombs is representative of the Gaya period and is a well-preserved example of some deep history in the middle of a modern downtown area.How the site was discovered is also inter-esting. While digging in 1969 for a housing construction project, some residents spotted earthenwares at the site. As a result, this hilly area was designated a national historic site and nearby universities and museums carried out excavations there until 1995. In total, 169 tombs and about 10,000 pieces of relics have been excavated from the Bokcheondong Ancient Tombs site.A well-maintained lawn and pathway can be seen in the area near the tomb site. At the outdoor exhibition hall, the original excavation site as it was when the tombs were discovered has been preserved for visitors.-Information: dongnae.go.kr/english-How to get there: Suan Station (Metro line 4), exit 7. Walk 15 minutes. It is located at the back of Naeseong Elementary School and Dongnae Office of Education. Or, Dongnae Station (Metro line 1), exit 4. Take mini bus 6 and get off at the Bokcheon Museum bus stop, or take mini bus 6-1 and get off at the Hanguk Sangsa bus stop. Recommended places■ Bokcheon MuseumAbout 10,000 historical relics are preserved and exhibited at Bokcheon Museum. Kept in good condition, these relics of the Iron Age provide a very unique opportunity to get a glance at the lives of descendants of the Gaya period.Earthenwares, iron armor, ornaments and gilt-bronze crowns excavated from the tombs of the ruling class before the sixth century can tell so much about the circumstances and culture of that time in this region's history. In addition, various kinds of pots, earthen-wares, miniatures of tombs, ornaments and farming tools are on display that show vestiges of exchange with neighboring areas of the city.-Hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily (entry until 5 p.m.), 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Saturday. Closed Mondays.
- Avail yourself of a variety of festival views Wide Busan: Fireworks Festival The Busan Fireworks Festival is one of the city's most popular autumn events. This year's festival is scheduled for Oct. 28. Tens of thousands of fireworks will light the night sky at the 13th Fireworks Festival Oct. 28 on and around Gwangalli Beach. But, that ultra-popular spot won't be the only option for enjoying the big booms. Barges filled with fireworks will be installed this year in front of Dongbaekseom Island and Igidae, centering on Gwangalli, to allow fans to get better views of the fireworks from multiple locations. Programs this year include a special fireworks performance by the Italian team that handled fireworks at the Milan Expo closing ceremony. Foreign languages will be written on all paid seats on the beach and leaflets with multiple languages will be available this year to make navigating the busy event easier and more enjoyable for foreign visitors.-Information: bfo.or.kr/festival_Eng-How to get there: Gwangan Station (Metro line 2), exit 3 or 5. Walk toward the beach. Suggested venues for great views■ Samik Beach Apartment walkway Find the Samik Beach Apartment walkway on right side of Gwangalli Beach. This iconic vantage point for the festival gets crowded very early, however, so plan accordingly.-How to get there: Geumnyeonsan Station (Metro line 2), exit 3. Walk toward the beach for 10 to 15 minutes. Samik Beach Apartments are to the right of the beach. ■ Millak Waterfront Park On the left side of Gwangalli Beach, Millak Waterfront Park is a favorite fireworks location among locals. You'll get a much closer view of the Gwangan Bridge in addition to the bright lights bursting in the sky.-How to get there: Suyeong Station (Metro line 2), exit 5. Take bus 210 and get off at the Millak Waterfront Park bus stop. ■ Hwangnyeongsan Beacon Mounds A great view of the city, including Gwang-alli, is in the mountains. Buses don't go up here, though, so plan to take a taxi.-How to get there: Geumnyeonsan Station (Metro line 2) and take a taxi. ■ Marine City Marine City's coastal road provides great views for fireworks. Simply have a seat along the road or, for more comfort, find a nearby coffee shop or restaurant's open terrace.-How to get there: Dongbaek Station (Metro line 2), exit 1 or 3. Walk toward the beach or yachting center for 15 minutes. ■ Jangsan Mountain Looking for a dramatic photograph that encompasses all the fireworks, Gwangan Bridge and cityscape? Jangsan Mountain in Haeundae is where you'll want to experience the festival. Although this venue can only be accessed by your own two feet, significantly fewer fireworks fans will be waiting for you.-How to get there: Jangsan Station (Metro line 2), exit 10. Walk toward the mountain for 20 minutes to find the mountain trail entrance. Or, Suyeong Station (Metro lines 2 or 3), exit 8. Take mini bus 3 at a bus stop at the alley next to Centum Hospital and get off at the Semyeong Green Apartment bus stop. Walk to the mountain trail from there.