Food
Eat the sea at Jagalchi Market
November is the best month to eat yellowtail fish.
November falls right in the middle of the harvest season, and markets are full of fresh fruits, vegetables and seafood. For seafood lovers, autumn is the perfect time to enjoy delicacies like king crabs, gizzard shads and oysters, which are at peak flavor. That also means autumn is the perfect time for seafood lovers to visit Busan and stop at Jagalchi Market, the nation's largest seafood market.
For those in the know, Jagalchi Market is the best place to savor "hoe," the Korean term for sliced raw fish. Koreans enjoy several types of hoe, pronounced "hweh," made from various fish and other seafood. Since Jagalchi Market is located right next to the ocean, you can be sure that whatever hoe you choose, the fish was alive and swimming around moments before it landed on your plate.
Busan is Good offers this handy guide on how to get the most out of a trip to Jagalchi Market. Then, you can "oiso" (come), "boiso" (see), and "saiso" (buy) like a pro.
Visiting Jagalchi Market is a full-on sensory experience, from the sights and smells of stalls brimming with fresh seafood to the clamor of female vendors calling out to customers. These vendors, known as "Jagalchi Ajumma," are easily spotted by their brightly colored rubber aprons and gloves, and their lively and welcoming demeanor.
The Jagalchi Ajummas continue a tradition that began after the Korean War when women started working in the area's various markets to support their families. The markets themselves began long before. While no exact date marks the beginning of Jagalchi Market, it originated when local fishermen set up makeshift beach stalls to sell their daily catch. These stalls became permanent in the 1920s, and the market was officially recognized in 1972. It was named Jagalchi Market in reference to the "jagal" or pebbles, that once covered the area's seashore. In 2003, officials redeveloped and modernized the market, creating the seven-story complex that stands today.
The complex is a temple dedicated to buying, cooking and eating all manner of sea creatures. The ground floor is packed with tanks of live seafood, including octopus, sea pineapple and sea cucumber. Prices are clearly marked per kilogram and the food will be weighed in front of you, so you needn't worry about being overcharged.
After purchasing your seafood, head to the eateries on the second floor, known as "Chojangjib." Each Chojangjib will prepare your seafood for a fee charged per person. Common preparations include hoe served with sliced vegetables and "chojang," a sweet, tangy and spicy dipping sauce, and "maeuntang," a spicy stew.
On the second floor, you'll also find a variety of dried seafood - perfect for pairing with an ice-cold beer. Don't miss out on the top-floor observatory, where you can enjoy views of Yeongdo Island, famously featured in the Apple TV drama "Pachinko."
King crabs are in peak season during autumn months.
Jagalchi Market serves the freshest seafood.
■How to Enjoy Jagalchi Market:
①What to eat
Choose your seafood from any stall on the first floor. Fall and winter are the best times to enjoy raw fish dishes like yellowtail, sea bream, flatfish, and rockfish. Not into raw fish? Try grilled shrimp, king crab, or shellfish like scallops. Feeling adventurous? Try "gomjangeo," or sea eel, a Busan specialty.
②Where to eat
Take your food to-go or dine-in on the second floor at one of the Chojangjib eateries.
③It's time to eat
To dine in, you'll pay around 5,000 won per person for a table, side dishes, dipping sauces and vegetables. Drinks, rice, and maeuntang are available at an additional cost. If you order king crab or lobster, expect to pay an extra fee for steaming.
·Address: 52 Jagalchihaean-ro, Jung-gu
·Hours: Open 5 a.m. to 9 p.m. Stall hours vary. Last order around 8:20 p.m. (Closed every first and third Tuesday of each month.)
<Vocab Spotlight>
harvest: 수확
gizzard shad: 전어
oyster: 굴
hoe: 회
savor: 맛보다
stall: 노점
brimming: 가득한
clamor: 외치다
makeshift: 임시방편
pebble: 자갈, 조약돌
tangy: 톡 쏘는
yellowtail: 방어(생선)
sea bream: 도미(생선)
flatfish: 광어(생선)
rockfish: 볼락(생선)
scallop: 가리비(조개류)